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When hungry foreigners first descend upon Tokyo, sushi is often high on their list. Noodle counters seem more plentiful than sushi bars in Tokyo, but for either fare one had better have some inside knowledge to be certain you’ll taste something beyond the ordinary. Gaijin might not mind mixing their metaphors, but be clear that the Japanese rarely mix sushi with mundane offerings like tofu, tempura or teriyaki at the same establishment. If you want sushi in Tokyo, go to a sushi bar. Full stop. And we’ve found one you’ll love.

Forget your budget for one night (take some profit in AAPL or cash in a CD) and go right to the Ginza. Don’t be distracted by the limos lined up outside Kyubei or the paparazzi across from Rainbow Roll. They both give glitter, but we found the crown jewel. Walk down Namiki Dori Street to the Dolce & Gabbana store at the corner of Miyuki Dori Street – and cross the street. Through the modern, circular tube door, take the lift to the 6th floor and enter Ginza Seamon. Breathe and be present – you are in sacred surroundings. Settle in at the long counter and forget the menu. Just tell the master sushi chef to bring on the “full course.” Choose some sake, wine or champagne from the extensive list, and be quiet. In 60 seconds, you will be in a state of pure bliss.

First, cleanse your palette with crisp grated radish (daikon) and tiny button mushroom (nameko). That’s green tea silken tofu with sea urchin (uni) that melts in your mouth, transparent flounder (hirmae) with a hint of sweet, freshly grated horseradish (wasabi) that teases your palate. A thin sliver of shiny mackerel (saba) wiggles (I swear it moved) as drops of fine soy sauce (shoyu) glisten on its surface, bluefin tuna belly (toro) is like egg white parfait that dissolves in 3 seconds. Before this, “melts like soft butter” were words one might employ to describe fine sashimi, but butter is four times more dense than the dark red belly tuna (toro) acquired by Seamon’s mastermind Kimihiko Araya for this and his two other jewels, Bar Masq and Shellfish Ginza Kazan around the corner. Red sea bream (tai) served with cubes of tender ginger (ginger), roasted head of Mantis shrimp, yellow striped butterfish with boiled Kyoto eggplant (nasu), white spotted conger sea eel (anago) masquerades as a juicy mango, purplish amberjack with Japanese lemon (yuzu), parrot bass striped break perch with Japanese mint leaf (chiso), dark banded rockfish and Atlantic cutlass fish with chewy, pickled seaweed (shio kombu) all arrive in a precise procession of mind blowing perfection and sumptuous simplicity. An egg cake (tamago) and a superb coconut, apricot soy and kuzu custard (sort of a Chinese digestif) ends the meal.

Asking how much a meal like this will cost is like wondering how many miles per gallon you’ll get in your Lamborghini. Just go with one other person (there were six of us) and fly home in economy. That should just about cover it. Be clear that nothing you order at your favorite local sushi haunt will ever taste the same again, that is unless you live on Chuo Dori Street. If there is fresher sushi anywhere, it’s still swimming. An absolutely phenomenal dinner is guaranteed.


Takeo Saturday, 05.13.06 @ 11:03 pm

After my first trip to Japan I left thinking, “Americans love their Maki/sushi, but Japanese love their noodles.”

For the most part every time I tried to order something it had fish in it and it drove me crazy. But I also had some of the greatest dining experiences of my life so far there. Creative cuisine restaurants, dinner at a Zen temple, macro dining at the Ritz, it was all unbelievable. And you’re totally right about the Meiji shrine, it was startling how all the insane noises of Tokyo just disappeared in that forest.


Josh Spear Sunday, 05.14.06 @ 3:58 am

Macro dining here has been amazing!


Chubby Hubby Sunday, 05.14.06 @ 8:37 pm

Hi Josh,

What a fantastic meal. I envy you. Eating in Japan is like eating nowhere else. Have you been to Osaka yet? I hear that’s where Japanese food is being pushed to new limits. I’ve just been told about a place that Tetsuya Wakuda makes regular pilgrimages to.

Hey, since you’re in Asia, I’d love it if you would help me out and take part in a little survey I’m trying my darndest to get off the ground. The survey would try ti find and rate Asia-Pacific’s best restaurants. I’ve called it, not to creatively, the Asia Pacific Best Restaurants List. You can jump to it here.

I’d be honored if you took part and helped spread the word.

Thanks,

CH


Jonah Wednesday, 05.17.06 @ 10:45 pm

I’m so jealous my brain is dripping out my ears and down my neck. I hope Japan doesn’t go anywhere- I’m on my way :)




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